The 10-Step Korean Skincare Routine: A Detailed Guide to Each Stage

Skincare enthusiasts around the world have fallen in love with the transformative power of the 10-step Korean skincare routine. Rooted in centuries of beauty traditions, this routine reflects a deep commitment to prevention, hydration, and actively nurturing the skin with natural ingredients. 

From the historical influences of the Three Kingdoms period to the modern-day pursuit of “glass skin,” Korean skincare is as much about consistency and care as it is about the products themselves. Unlike the treatment-focused approach often found in Western skincare, the Korean method emphasizes gentle, long-term solutions to maintain a healthy, radiant complexion.

Each step in this routine plays a specific role, from the double cleanse that ensures a fresh canvas to the essences and serums that target individual concerns. It’s not just about achieving glowing skin—it’s about fostering a holistic approach to skin health.

By understanding the history and purpose behind this ritual, you’ll discover how to tailor it to your unique needs, while also avoiding common mistakes that can hinder progress.

Korean makeup's history dates back to the Three Kingdoms period, with cosmetics becoming popular in Goguryeo, Baekje, and Silla. Goguryeo focused on round faces and thin eyebrows, while Baekje advanced cosmetic production, even influencing Japan.

In Silla, makeup was linked to purity, and even elite men like the Hwarang used it. Lead powder was introduced in 692, paving the way for modern cosmetics. The Unified Silla period saw cosmetics become symbols of luxury, influenced by Chinese culture.

In the Goryeo Dynasty, personal adornment flourished, whereas the Joseon Dynasty valued modesty and simplicity, promoting minimal makeup in line with Confucian values. The Kisaeng entertainers influenced public trends, highlighting bold eyebrows and radiant skin.

Prevents Skin Problems

The Korean skincare routine consists of 10 steps, each with a specific purpose to target different skin concerns. By using high-quality products and following this routine consistently, you can prevent and even treat various skin problems such as acne, dryness, and signs of aging.

Hydrates the Skin

One of the main focuses of the Korean skincare routine is hydration. With multiple layers of lightweight hydrating products, your skin will stay plump, moisturized, and glowing.

Protects the Skin

The Korean skincare routine also includes a step for sunscreen, which is essential in protecting the skin from harmful UV rays and other environmental factors that can cause damage and premature aging.

Promotes Healthy Skin Barrier

The Korean skincare routine emphasizes the use of gentle and nourishing products that help maintain a strong and healthy skin barrier. This can prevent issues like sensitive skin, redness, and irritation.

Uses Natural Ingredients

Probably the most attractive aspect of the Korean skincare routine is the use of natural and plant-based ingredients. These products are gentle on the skin and provide nourishment without harsh chemicals, and the more recent popularity of snail mucin is a great example of this.

Maintains a Healthy Skin Microbiome

The Korean skincare routine also focuses on maintaining a healthy balance of bacteria on the skin, known as the skin microbiome. This can prevent issues like acne and inflammation, keeping your skin clear and healthy.

Reduces Inflammation

Inflammation is a common issue that can lead to various skin problems, such as acne, redness, and sensitivity. The Korean skincare routine includes products with anti-inflammatory properties, helping to reduce inflammation and keep the skin calm and balanced—though nothing can guarantee to balance out an inflammatory diet, which Korean cuisine also plays a role in.

Unlike Western skin care approaches, which focus primarily on treating issues after they manifest, Korean skincare is about preventing and maintaining skin health before problems arise. This cultural approach emphasizes daily practices, such as the dedicated use of sunscreen and intense hydration, to preserve youthful and healthy skin.

Korean skincare starts early; from a young age, Koreans tend to be ingrained with a holistic approach to skin health, viewing it as a long-term commitment rather than a series of quick fixes.

This perspective is in stark contrast to Western skincare, which leans towards using stronger treatments to address issues as they occur, like the benzoyl peroxide washes and salicylic acids of my own teen years.

In addition, Korean skincare is renowned for its use of natural ingredients such as the aforementioned snail mucin, centella, and ginseng, which are less common in Western products. This reflects the preference for natural and gentle solutions over synthetic or harsh chemicals, aligning with their philosophy of nurturing the skin barrier.

Given the high demand and cultural significance of skincare in South Korea, products are both relatively affordable and of superior quality, due to extensive research and innovation within the industry. For travelers interested in trying these products, it's important to understand that results may take time and that the process is as much about consistency and routine as it is about the ingredients themselves. 

Exploring Korean skincare while traveling offers a unique insight into a culture where taking care of one's skin is as essential as any daily ritual.

Step 1: Oil-Based or Balm Cleanser

The first step in the Korean skincare routine, the oil-based or balm cleanser, is essential for removing makeup, sunscreen, and any excess sebum. Oil-based cleansers are adept at dissolving stubborn impurities that water-based cleansers might leave behind, such as waterproof mascara and long-wearing foundations.

By using an oil-based cleanser, you can gently draw out dirt without stripping away the skin's natural oils, which helps maintain balance and prevents the overproduction of sebum, a common cause of breakouts. When choosing an oil-based cleanser, look for ingredients like olive oil, jojoba oil, or coconut oil, which are known for their nourishing and hydrating properties.

To effectively use an oil-based cleanser, apply it directly to dry skin, gently massaging in circular motions. This helps to break down and lift away dirt, makeup, and excess oil. The key to this step is taking your time to ensure that all impurities are dissolved and ready to be rinsed away. After massaging, splash your face with lukewarm water and continue massaging a bit more as the cleanser transitions into a milky consistency.

This process not only ensures thorough cleansing but also provides a gentle massage, stimulating blood circulation and promoting a healthy glow. Finally, rinse your face thoroughly with water, leaving your skin prepped for the next step in the routine.

Step 2: Water-Based Cleanser

The second step in the Korean skincare routine is using a water-based cleanser. The purpose of this step is to remove any remaining impurities, such as sweat and dirt, that may have been left behind from the previous cleansing step.

Water-based cleansers typically come in the form of foaming or gel formulas and are designed to thoroughly cleanse without stripping the skin's natural oils. Look for ingredients like glycerin, which helps to hydrate and soothe the skin, and tea tree oil, known for its antibacterial properties.

To use a water-based cleanser, wet your face with lukewarm water and apply a small amount of product to your fingertips. Gently massage the cleanser onto your face in circular motions and then rinse off with lukewarm water. Pat your skin dry with a clean towel, being careful not to rub or tug at the delicate skin on your face.

Using a water-based cleanser after an oil-based cleanser ensures that all traces of dirt and impurities are removed from the surface of the skin. This step also helps to maintain the pH balance of the skin, which is essential for a healthy complexion.

After using a water-based cleanser, your skin should feel clean, refreshed, and ready for the next steps in your skincare routine. Don't forget to choose a cleanser that is suitable for your skin type to ensure the best results.

Step 3: Exfoliator (1x-2x a week)

Exfoliating is an essential step in any skincare routine, and it's no different from the Korean skincare routine. Exfoliation helps to remove dead skin cells and unclog pores, leaving your skin smoother and brighter.

Korean exfoliators often use natural ingredients such as rice bran or sugar to gently exfoliate the skin without causing irritation. They also contain hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid to keep the skin moisturized.

When using an exfoliator, it's important not to overdo it. Too much exfoliation can strip the skin of its natural oils and cause dryness, redness, and sensitivity. It's recommended to only use an exfoliator once or twice a week, depending on your skin's needs; I myself do so twice a week, using a more gentle sugar exfoliator for my sensitive skin.

To use an exfoliator, wet your face with lukewarm water and apply the product to your fingertips. Gently massage it onto your skin in circular motions, focusing on areas that tend to be more rough or prone to clogged pores. Rinse off thoroughly with lukewarm water and pat dry.

After exfoliating, you may notice that your skin feels smoother and brighter, which is because removing dead skin cells allows for better absorption of skincare products and reveals healthier-looking skin underneath.

Remember to always follow up with a toner to restore the pH balance of your skin after exfoliation. And as always, patch test any new exfoliating product before incorporating them into your routine.

Step 4: Toner

In the Korean skincare routine, toner is considered an essential step that helps to hydrate and prep the skin for better absorption of subsequent products. Toners also help to balance the skin's pH levels, which can be disrupted by cleansing or exfoliation.

Korean toners are often referred to as "skin" and come in a variety of forms such as watery, gel-like, or even milky consistency. They typically contain ingredients like hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and plant extracts to provide hydration and nourishment to the skin.

To use a toner, dispense a small amount onto your hands or a cotton pad and gently pat it onto your skin. This will help to remove any remaining impurities and prep your skin for the next step in your skincare routine.

One tip is to use multiple layers of toner, also known as the "7-skin method", by applying several thin layers of toner one after another. This can provide even more hydration and plumpness to the skin, though, as with all skincare products, patch-test new toners before incorporating them into your routine.

Step 5: Essence

Essence is a highly concentrated product that comes after toner in the Korean skincare routine. Its main purpose is to provide deep hydration to the skin and help with overall skin health.

Korean essences are often described as "miracle water" and contain ingredients like hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and fermented extracts to provide intense hydration and nourishment to the skin.

To use an essence, dispense a small amount onto your hands or a cotton pad and gently pat it onto your skin. Similar to toner, you can also use multiple layers of essence for added benefits.

Korean brands also offer "first treatment essences," which are considered essential in achieving the coveted "glass skin" look. These essences contain a high concentration of active ingredients and are used before any other skincare products.

Essences are suitable for all skin types, but it's important to choose one that is tailored to your specific skin concerns. Look for ingredients like niacinamide for brightening, or propolis for soothing and anti-inflammatory effects.

Step 6: Serums

Serums are highly concentrated treatments that target specific skin concerns such as fine lines, hyperpigmentation, or acne. They typically have a thinner consistency compared to moisturizers and penetrate deeper into the skin.

Korean serums often contain potent ingredients like vitamin C, retinol, and snail mucin to address various skin concerns. They are also known for their lightweight and fast-absorbing formulas, making them suitable for layering in your skincare routine.

To use a serum, apply a small amount onto your fingertips and gently pat it into the skin. You can also mix serums with other products like moisturizers or essences for added benefits.

Step 7: Sheet Masks (2x-3x a week)

Sheet masks have gained popularity in recent years thanks to Korean beauty trends, though they’ve long-been used by Koreans of all ages. These masks are thin sheets soaked in concentrated serums and are designed to be left on the face for a specific amount of time.

Sheet masks come in various types, including hydrating, brightening, anti-aging, and pore-refining. They provide an instant boost of hydration and nourishment to the skin while targeting specific concerns.

To use a sheet mask, remove it from the packaging and carefully unfold it onto your face. Smooth out any wrinkles or air bubbles, then sit back and relax for 10-20 minutes as the serum absorbs into your skin.

Sheet masks can be used 2-3 times a week, depending on your skin's needs. It's important to choose a mask that caters to your skin concerns and to avoid leaving it on for too long as it can dry out the skin, though these days there are some popular overnight sheet masks which work quite well.

Step 8: Eye Cream

The delicate skin around our eyes is often the first to show signs of aging. That's why using an eye cream is essential in any Korean skincare routine.

Eye creams are formulated with gentle yet effective ingredients like caffeine, hyaluronic acid, and peptides to target dark circles, puffiness, and fine lines. They also provide much-needed hydration and nourishment to this sensitive area, though some people don’t incorporate eye creams into their routines until their thirties.

To use an eye cream, take a small amount onto your ring finger and gently pat it around the orbital bone. Avoid rubbing or pulling at the skin, as it can cause premature wrinkles. Eye creams should be used twice a day, in the morning and evening, to see maximum results. 

Step 9: Moisturizer

Moisturizing is an essential step in any skincare routine, and the Korean method is no exception. A good moisturizer helps to seal in all the previous products and provides much-needed hydration to the skin.

Korean moisturizers are known for their lightweight yet potent formulas that cater to various skin types, from oily to dry. They often contain beneficial ingredients like snail mucin, ceramides, and green tea extract.

To apply a moisturizer, take a small amount onto your fingertips and gently massage it into your face and neck in an upward motion; this helps improve blood circulation and gives a natural lifting effect.

Moisturizer should be used twice a day, after cleansing and toning. It's crucial to choose a moisturizer that is suitable for your skin type to avoid clogging pores or exacerbating any existing concerns.

Step 10: Sunscreen

Last but not least, sun protection is an essential step in the Korean skincare routine. The harmful UV rays from the sun can cause premature aging, dark spots, and even skin cancer. That's why it's crucial to wear sunscreen every day, regardless of the weather or season.

Korean sunscreens are known for their lightweight texture and high SPF protection. They also often contain beneficial ingredients like antioxidants, hyaluronic acid, and niacinamide.

To use sunscreen effectively, apply it every morning before applying any type of makeup—it’s not necessary to put it on at night when most of these other skincare steps are done.

To apply, take a generous amount and gently pat it onto your face and neck, avoiding the eye area and not tugging on or rubbing it into the skin. It's recommended to use sunscreen with at least SPF 30 daily, even if you're staying indoors, and reapply every two hours.

Skipping Cleansing

This is the first and most crucial step of the Korean skincare routine. Skipping it can lead to clogged pores and prevent other products from being absorbed effectively.

Using Too Many Products

While the 10-step routine may seem extensive, it's essential to choose products based on your skin concerns and not just follow every step blindly or even do every step every single day. Overloading your skin with too many products too often can cause irritation and sensitization.

Not Patch Testing New Products

It's always a good idea to patch-test new products before incorporating them into your routine, to help you avoid any potential allergic reactions or irritations.

Using Harsh Exfoliants

Exfoliating too frequently with harsh products can strip the skin of its natural oils and disrupt its barrier, leading to dryness and irritation—it's important to choose gentle exfoliators and not overdo it.

Not Wearing Sunscreen

As mentioned earlier, sunscreen is a crucial step in any skincare routine. Not wearing sunscreen daily can lead to premature aging and increase the risk of skin cancer.

Putting on Too Much Serum or Oil

While serums and oils can be beneficial for the skin, using too much of them can clog pores and cause breakouts. Remember to use only a few drops and massage it into the skin gently.

Neglecting the Eye Area

The eye area is delicate and requires special care. Using harsh products or neglecting this area altogether can lead to fine lines, wrinkles, and dark circles.

Not Buying Products According to Skin Type or Concern

It's important to purchase skincare products according to your skin type and specific concerns. Using the wrong products can do more harm than good.

Not Washing Hands Before Touching Your Face

Our hands come into contact with many bacteria and germs throughout the day, and not washing them before touching our faces can transfer these impurities onto the skin.